Acacia acinacea in a Moama garden
(K Stockwell)
This page provides information about sustainable gardening.
In particular, this page includes some advice about composting, mulching, watering and garden design.
Other pages linked to this site provide information about indigenous plants.
There is a separate page about Whipstick plants ~ plants that are indigenous to the Greater Bendigo National Park.
There is a separate page which outlines a vehicular plant tour around the outskirts of Moama.
There is also a separate page listing the top 10 plantation plants for various soil types and the top 10 indigenous plants for garden cultivation.
It is illegal to remove native plants from the bush. Most, if not all, the plants listed here can be purchased in the nurseries listed below.
An indigenous plant is a native plant but a native plant is not necessarily indigenous to a particular area. When some natives have been introduced to other parts of Australia they have become weeds. For instance, Cootamundra Wattle is not a problem around Cootamundra but in the area around Bendigo it is regarded as a weed.
Fortunately, there are several indigenous plant nurseries in the region. One of the biggest and best as far as the home gardener is concerned is Goldfields Revegetation Nursery in Mandurang, a suburb of Bendigo.
There are also several nurseries which specialise in providing indigenous trees and shrubs for farm and roadside plantations.
There is even a nursery on the outskirts of Echuca which specialises in native grasses (Ko-warra Native Grasses). Tim Barden of Ko-warra Native Grasses is propagating a variety of Weeping Grass (Microlaena stipioides) which has great potential for lawns, requiring only about half as much water as conventional lawns. He is also propagating an even hardier native grass, Red grass, (Bothriochloa macra).
With severe water restrictions, many residents of the region are turning to plants which require less water and which can survive dry periods. Once established, many indigenous plants perform well and it is the intention of these pages to help promote indigenous plants suitable for garden cultivation.
A mistake that many people make is planting trees and shrubs which become too large for the garden in which they are planted. Some are planted far too close to boundary fences and a lot of money may have to be spent pruning or removing them. Some people plant shrubs and trees far too close together.
Care must be taken to plant sand-loving plants on sandy soil, clay-loving plants in clay areas and so on. Soil type, elevation and aspect must all be taken into consideration.
Garden Plant Nurseries
Goldfields Revegetation, Tannery Lane MANDURANG 5439 5384 (open 7 days),
Neangar Nursery
McClelland Drive, EAGLEHAWK
Ph. (03) 5446 9260
Mobile: 0419 712 701Rochester Native Nursery 6708 Northern Highway ROCHESTER
(03) 5484 3777Billabong Gardens Complex
Wanganui Road SHEPPARTON
Phone (03) 5821 8632Suntuff Native Plant,
1220 Bacchus Marsh Road BULLENGAROOK
limited range of water-wise plants; open by appointment (03) 5428 9369
Farm Plant Nurseries
K and B Haw
Venns Creek Nursery
Yando Road BOORTMcKindlays Riverine Nursery
2220 Perricoota Road MOAMA
Phone (03) 5483 6240Agri-Tree Nursery
BENALLA
Phone (03) 5768 2397Australian Native Farm Forestry
Cnr Chapel and Fields Roads COBRAM
Phone 5873 5444Billabong Gardens Complex
Wanganui Road SHEPPARTON
Phone (03) 5821 8632Goulburn Valley Tree Group
TATURA
Phone (03) 5824 2304Goldfields Revegetation
MANDURANG
{hone (03) 5439 5384Kowarra Native Grasses
(Native grasses plus indigenous trees and shrubs)
Echuca-Mitiamo Road ECHUCA Phone (03) 5480 9778Rochester Native Nursery
6708 Northern Highway ROCHESTER
Phone (03) 5484 3777Other farm plant nurseries
(pdf file on Greening Australia site)
Related pages
Bushland Reserves of northern Victoria and southern Riverina NSW
External links
Australian Native Plants Society
Includes links to regional and State groups of the SocietyAustralian Native Plant Society's Photo Gallery
Australian Native Plant Guide
A guide to selecting native plants to meet your requirements (with photographs)Goldfields Revegetation, Bendigo (Mandurang)
Growing Australian Native Plants: Propagation and Cultivation
Indigenous Plants of Bendigo
Several pdf files can be downloaded from this local government siteKo-warra Native Grass Nursery, Echuca
Gardening with Local Native Plants
(pdf brochure on City of Shepparton site)Native Plant Holdings
Operators of Mildura Native NurseryNeangar Native Nursery, Eaglehawk
Revegetation and Forestry PlantsRoyal Botanic Gardens Cranbourne
Includes a section on 'The Australian Garden'Suntuff Native Plants, Bullengarook
Site includes a photo gallery
Sustainable gardening
in
northern Victoria and the Southern Riverina
Photos: Keith StockwellGardening Advice
on saving water, preparing compost, watering, etc.
Introduction
Introduction
This page provides some tips for gardeners of northern Victoria and southern (Riverina) New South Wales.
A key to a healthy garden is the soil. This page provides advice on how to make good compost, avoiding the common pitfalls.
There are notes on mulching and watering. Many householders use far too much water than is necessary, and ironically those with modern houses often use more water than those with old-style established gardens.
Whilst most of the pages linked to this section deal with indigenous plants, this page is of a more general nature, and includes notes about the growing of vegetables and ornamental plants in containers.
By planting plants of your own region we are providing a habitat for native birds and insects, and maintaining something of the character of your region. This is particularly important on farmland and near bushland. By 'planting local' we are also helping maintain the balance of nature.
Compost
About half of the household garbage thrown out is food and garden waste. Throwing out such material in the garbage bin adds to environmental problems and causes landfill sites to fill more quickly. It is possible to place food scraps, grass clippings, prunings, weeds, paper, manure, leaves and other organic materials into a heap or compost bin, recycling the material to improve the quality of your soil. By following these tips, it should be possible to make good compost in just a few weeks.
• Use a well-ventilated compost bin placed in a position where it receives sun for part of each day
If you have a compost bin which is not well-ventilated, compost will take much longer to break down. If your compost bin lacks aeration, drill a few holes in the side of your bin'. If your compost bin does not receive enough warmth, decomposition of the contents will take longer. Similarly, the contents should be neither dry nor excessively wet (about 15% moisture content is ideal). During hot weather, a little water may be added to your compost bin to speed up decomposition. It is not necessary to use a specially-designed bin: some gardeners prefer to have a compost heap.Sticks can be placed in a compost bin/heap to aid air circulation.
• Turn the contents of your compost bin regularly to speed up decomposition and avoid smells
It is possible to purchase compost bins which can be rotated by hand or by machine. If your bin cannot be rotated, it is possible to purchase a special tool from larger hardware stores which can be used to 'stir' the contents of your bin or turn over your compost heap.• Layer the contents of your compost
To produce good compost, start with a layer of twigs or course mulch at the bottom of your compost heap or bin to help with drainage. In order to keep mice and rat out of your compost, it is a good idea to place the chicken wire on the ground beneath the bin. Accumulate kitchen scraps in a small container and periodically add these to the heap or bin, so that there is a thin layer of vegetable scraps (tea leaves, potato peelings, pea pods, etc) and green garden waste. Cover with a layer of brown garden organics/broken down compost. Repeat these steps so that there are thin layers of matter. A thick layer of grass clippings will not break down quickly, so only place thin layers of clippings in the heap/bin.• Try to keep weed seeds out of your compost.
Before placing weeds, kykuyu or couch grass in your compost bin, it is a god idea to leave these grasses to dry out first. It may be wise to cut off seeds before adding grasses and weeds to the compost.• Avoid placing meat, seafood or dairy products in the bin.
Placing meat, fish and dairy products in a compost heap/bin may cause smells and attract rodents.• Seaweed solution
Liquid seaweed can be added to the contents of your compost heap/bin to speed up the process. However, fertiliser should never be added to compost as unwanted fungi may grow as a result.• Manure
Adding cow manure or blood-and-bone may improve the quality of your compost• Dry matter can be added to 'sweeten' the compost
Adding sawdust, torn up newspaper, gypsum (or garden lime) and/or ash from the fire may reduce the acidity caused by excessive nitrogen-rich materials.• Avoid spraying insecticides into your compost
The breakdown of materials into compost (soil) depends upon decomposition. Micro-organisms, worms and insects contribute to the process. Turning the compost discourages ants and cockroaches but does not harm the useful organisms.Food scraps ~ other than acidic foods (e.g. citrus and onions), meat scraps, bones, dairy products and sea food scraps ~ can be placed into a worm farm instead of a compost bin. Worms can also eat small amounts of paper. But only a little material should be added to a worm farm at any time.
Worms do not need to be purchased and added to a compost bin or compost heap: they will find their own way to it.
Compost is ready for use when individual food scraps, leaves, etc can no longer be detected.
The Riverina and Murray Regional organisation of Councils has leaflets which provide more information on composting and worm farms. Alternatively, NSW residents can obtain information from the NSW Department of Environment and Climate Change by phoning 131 555.
Mulch
Mulch is material on the ground which reduces the number of weeds and helps retain soil moisture. Mulch helps make gardens healthier by greatly increasing the biological activity in the soil (especially worms and beneficial micro-organisms). In bushland, there is a natural mulch of leaves and twigs. Whilst leaves and twigs are a good mulch, there are other alternatives.
• Compost
Digging in broken-down compost helps a soil to retain moisture and nutrients ~ especially good for vegetable gardens.• Lawn clippings
Lawn clippings tend to be rich in nitrogen and are a good garden fertiliser and mulch, especially for vegetable gardens. But apply thinly.• Garden prunings
Small twigs, branches and leafy cuttings are sometimes too large for the compost heap/bin. However, they should NOT be placed in the garbage bin. Place them on the ground and run your lawn mower over them a few times. Larger cuttings can be shredded using a mulcher. Mulched material is especially good on a garden of shrubs.• Red Gum chips, hay, straw, etc
Mulch can be purchased at larger garden centres and larger hardware stores. In our region, River Red Gum chips are relatively inexpensive and pleasing to the eye. They are especially good on native gardens. Allow leaves and twigs to fall on the Red Gum chips. Soil fertility is increased as the mulch breaks down.The trouble with hay or straw is that there may be seeds in the mix, resulting in the growth of weeds. Bark is a good mulch but pine bark tends to blow around on windy days.
• Pebbles and stones are not desirable
There is an increasing tendency to use crushed rock, river pebbles and the like on gardens. Gardens covered in pebbles or stones usually look pleasing to the eye. BUT, given our climate, this is not a good idea because of the heat that radiates off them. Plants are more likely to die if you use pebbles or stones as a mulch.Avoid placing mulch right up to the trunk/stem of shrubs and trees to help reduce collar rot or plant disease.
Avoid using material that has been exposed to weed killer or pesticides as that mulch may harm your plants and/or soil.
Newspaper can be placed on the soil under mulch to help deter weed growth....but using plastic or black polythene is not a wise idea as it prevents water entering the soil and is detrimental to micro-organisms and worms. Carpet is not good. Similarly, using saw dust is not wise as the saw dust can cake, preventing water penetration.
One disadvantage of mulching is that water from light rain or hand watering may not penetrate the mulch, i.e. it may not reach plant roots.
The Riverina and Murray Regional Organisation of Councils has prepared a leaflet on "The Marvel of Mulch". The brochure was referred to when the above notes were prepared.
Soil Preparation
When preparing a garden bed for native plants, it is wise to build the garden bed up slightly to help excessive water drain away. Most native plants do not like wet feet.
Broken down compost is good for vegetable gardens, especially if dug in or applied thinly.
Blood and bone can be dug in to improve the quality of the soil.
Before planting native trees and shrubs, it is wise to prepare the ground well beforehand. If large numbers of trees and shrubs are to be planted, it is a good idea to rip the ground to temporarily remove weeds and improve water penetration. Whilst gypsum can be used as a clay breaker, avoid using chemical fertilisers. Most natives can tolerate blood and bone or broken down manure. Water natives in well. Follow-up waterings are desirable to help prevent plant losses. Water at increasingly long intervals until the plants show good signs of growth. Over watering can kill plants. Avoid planting trees close to a house or fence.
When preparing a garden bed, it is wise to add sand and compost to clay soils. Manure and gypsum can be added.
Watering
Water is scarce and is becoming increasingly expensive. Water restrictions are common in our region. A water-wise garden is therefore worth considering. Ironically, many householders with new homes with lots of paving and small gardens tend to use more water than many householders who own older, established homes on larger blocks. Why is this so?
• Water of an evening or early in the morning
Watering in the middle of a hot day is not a good idea. More water will evaporate and less water will soak in.• Don't lawns or gardens more than twice a week
Watering an area for about 15 minutes twice a week is sufficient for most lawns and gardens. Any longer, and water may run off down the gutter and be wasted. Over watering can kill shrubs, especially if the drainage is poor. Native plants are adapted to our dry, not climate and will quickly freshen up after watering....so don't worry if they sometimes look a bit stressed.After about 15 minutes, move the hose or sprinkler to another area of your lawn or garden.
It is wise to use a tap timer so that areas are not over-watered should one forget that an area is being watered. A timer is useful, even if and when one is hand watering.
• Water the soil under plants, not just the leaves of plants
Watering should be to benefit plants. The soil needs to be moist, not the leaves.• The pitfalls of automatic watering systems
Plants should only be watered when they need to be watered, and not when the soil is already wet. Automatic watering systems are undesirable insofar as too much water tends to be wasted. A sensor device can be used to determine when a garden bed requires watering.• The pitfall of drippers
Drippers deliver water to certain areas of soil. Plant roots tend to grow toward the wet spots near the soil surface and this may result in plants falling over. Plant roots should be encouraged to spread out and go deep into the soil rather than heading to a moist spot. Furthermore, drippers tend to clog up. If you use drippers, it is best to use three drippers around the root zone of each plant: this is not always practical.Drip irrigation pipe uses about 50% less water than drippers and is less likely to clog up. Also available is recycled rubber pipe but it is not recommended.
• Vegetable patches need watering several times a week during warm/hot weather (but herbs do not)
Most vegetable gardens need watering several times a week during warmer weather. Maize and some other vegetables demand a lot of water, most herbs relatively little. Therefore, it is a good idea to grow herbs in a separate area away from vegetables. See section on herbs below. For information on vegetables, visit the ABC's Gardening Australia site.• Watering pots
To determine whether or not a pot plant requires watering, place a finger in the pot. If the soil in the pot appears to be moist, do not water it. If the soil is dry, water. If the potting mix is completely dr and the plant looks stressed, it may be wise to immerse the entire pot in a bucket of water for a short time.Water pot plants separately: do not water them at the same time as a garden bed or vegie patch because pot plants have different requirements.
Remember to water the soil, not the plant. Many orchids are an exception insofar as they naturally make use of moisture on their leaves.
Herbs
It is relatively easy to grow herbs. Compared to most introduced palnts and vegetables, most herbs require relativly little water.
There is a wealth of information about growing herbs on the Internet. The ABC Gardening Australia site has some useful information. The NSW Botanic Gardens Trust site listed below is particularly good.
Landscaping design
When designing a garden, envisage what the garden may look like several years hence, when shrubs and trees have grown in size. Take into consideration the soil type, the character of the neighbour's gardens, maintenance requirements and watering requirements.
• Lawns
If you are planning to have an area of lawn, try to avoid sharp corners: rounded corners make mowing and lawn maintenance easier. Try to avoid sloping lawns from which water may run off and be wasted. Lawn grasses which require relatively little water can be obtained from Tim Barton's Ko-warra Native Grass Nursery, Echuca-Mitiamo Road ECHUCA.• Vegetable gardens
Vegetable patches should be in a sunny position. See also the section on herbs (above).
• Do your homework first
Before purchasing plants, prepare a rough design and do some research, e.g. by studying the top 10 native plant site linked to this page. If you decide to include indigenous (local area) native plants, it is wise to purchase them from one of the specialist nurseries listed in the side panel. Make sure each plant species you purchase comes with a tag identifying the plant and listing its width and height. AVOID purchasing unlabelled plants from a fete or street stall! Not only are such plants unlikely to be idea, but the soil may be contaminated with fungi or chemicals.• Avoid planting trees in inappropriate places
Most trees grow too large for today's small urban blocks. If you plant a tree or trees, make sure that they are well away from the neighbour's property. Many disputes occur because tree branches or leaves fall onto neighbouring property or because tree roots damage neighbouring houses or property. Trees tend to suck a lot of moisture out of the soil and this can cause brick walls to crack if the tree is close to a house or garage.• The smaller and younger the better
It is far cheaper to purchase plants in tubes rather than in large pots. A large plant may be good in the short run but a plant purchased in a tube or small pot is likely to develop into a healthier, more attractive and longer-lasting specimen.• Plants with greyish leaves and small leaves tend to require less water
Indigenous plants, and most native plants, are adapted to withstand hot, dry conditions. Therefore, they demand less water than introduced plants with broad leaves. Roses, succulents, cacti and herbs are introduced plants which require little water. Generally, plants with greyish leaves, waxy leaves and/or spines rather than broad leaves require less water than do plants with broad green leaves.
• Some plants to avoid
Camellias and ferns require a lot of water and are best avoided given our climate and water restrictions. Also, plants which have become weeds should be avoided, e.g. Bridal Creeper, Agapanthus, Gazenias, Peppercorn, Canary Island Palm, Willows. There are indigenous plants which are ideal substitutes, e.g. as far as the leaves and shape are concerned, our local Dianella looks very similar to Agapanthus (although Dianella does not have the large flowers). Dianella is very hardy, even hardier than Agapanthus.• Garden design
The following books (which are likely to be on sale in The Tangled Garden and other local bookshops) may help inspire you when designing a native garden:Diana Snape, The Australian garden: designing with Australian plants (Bloomings Books)
Paul Urquhart and Leigh Clapp, The new native garden: designing with Australian plants (New Holland)
Not all the plants mentioned in the two books are, of course, indigenous to this area, but indigenous plants can often be substituted for the plants suggested. A specialist nursery may be able to assist you in this regard.
'top 10 garden plants', 'top 10 plants for dryland plantations' and 'top 10 plants for plantations alongside irrigated land' are the subject of a separate page (see link buttons above).
When growing indigenous plants in a garden, don't assume that indigenous plants require neither maintenance nor watering during dry times. Most natives do.
Some species grow best in sandy soils, some in moist soils, some in clay soils, some in semi-shade and some in full sun. Try to choose plants suitable for your soils and needs.
Farm plantations should have a mix of species, with wattles included amongst the eucalypts. Planting various species in random order is, in the opinion of many, preferable to a regimented pattern. Several rows are preferable to one or two rows. In order to support a high percentage of bush birds, a vegetation cover of 30 percent seems to be the threshold below which the number of bush bird species falls significantly. This percentage cover may be lower if the property adjoins natural bushland. Whilst such a high percentage of cover may be unrealistic, even a lower percentage shrub and tree cover will provide shade and act as a wind break, thereby improving pasture growth and benefiting stock.
As far as the home garden is concerned, don't fall into the trap of planting trees and large shrubs near fences and the house! Big trees on town blocks may mean tree-removalists may have to be employed one day. Leave room, especially near the front of a garden, for the small, hardy, colourful ones.
Native grasses can add interest to your garden but introduced weeds will need to be weeded or kept at bay with mulch, e.g. sawdust or red gum chips.
Using pavers and red gum chips can create a professional effect as the following picture I took the photo in a public garden in a Brisbane suburb. Each 'front garden' along a street in the gardens had a different type of garden, one had a cottage garden of native plants, one was a European-style garden using natives,another was a rainforest garden and so on. All the gardens had paving, retaining walls and so on.
Example of a native garden (K Stockwell)
Publications
Most bookshops stock a range of gardening books. There are also several good gardening magazine (e.g. Gardening Australia magazine) and videos (e.g. on permaculture).
Riverina and Murray Regional Organisation of Councils have a number of brochures about sustainable gardening (composting, mulching, worm farms, etc).
The ABC's Gardening Australia site includes a plant finder with notes and photographs of a wide range of vegetables, shrubs, herbs, trees, etc.
Some seed companies (e.g. Yates) produce useful guides regarding the growing of fruits and vegetables. Apart from printed material, Yates now has an electronic Guide to Gardening with advice on growing of vegetables and other plants.
One of the best books covering both introduced and native plants suitable for Australian gardens il:
Ernest Lord and J.H. Willis, Shrubs and Trees for Australian Gardens Lothian)
The following publications about native plants may prove useful:
Bendigo Field Naturalist Club, Wildflowers of Bendigo
Nathalia Wildflower Group, Flora of the Nathalia district and Barmah Forest (Prominent Press, Shepparton)
City of Greater Shepparton, Gardening with local native plants (brochure) Click here to download a copy.
City of Greater Bendigo and Bendigo Wildflower Group, Indigenous plants of Bendigo Click here to download the various sections of a booklet.
Martin Driver and Marianne Porteners, The use of locally-native trees and shrubs in the southern Riverina (free publication that was distributed by Greening Australia, Deniliquin)
G.M. Cunningham and others, Plants of western New South Wales (Inkata Press)
Leon Costermans, Trees of Victoria and adjoining areas (Costerman Publishing)
Leon Costermans, Native trees and shrubs of South-eastern Australia (Rigby)
W. Rodger Elliot and David L. Jones, Encyclopaedia of Australian plants suitable for cultivation (Lothian)
John W Wrigley and Murray Fagg, Australian native plants (Collins)
Victorian National Parks Association, Field guide to Victoria's Box and Ironbark country
Philip Moore, Plants of inland Australia (New Holland)
Ian Lunt, Tim Barlow & James Ross, Plains-wandering: exploring the grassy plains of south-eastern Australia (VNPA/Trust for Nature)
Neil and Jane Marriott, Grassland plants of south-eastern Australia
Diana Snape, The Australian garden: designing with Australian plants (Bloomings Books)
Paul Urquhart and Leigh Clapp, The new native garden: designing with Australian plants (New Holland)
List of books on plants of NSW (link to a page by Environment NSW)
Copyright of original photographs used on this site remains with the photographers.
Click here to return to the top of this page
Click here for a vehicular plant tour around the outskirts of Moama
This page created May 2010 by Keith Stockwell
Northern Victoria and Southern Riverina Conservation and Environment Site
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